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Plants vary in terms of frost tolerance, but many can be planted outside early without any danger of damage from frost or snow. The advantage of containers is that they can be moved into a more protected spot if you have any concerns at all. For an early garden, use those annuals that have a higher frost tolerance. Pansies and snapdragons are two examples of frost tolerant annuals and can be planted in early April without harm.
If you would
like more information, please, refer to our 
Plant Hardiness Map.
"Hardening off" is essential to transplanting any plants in spring. This allows the plant to adjust slowly from the protected greenhouse environment to being outside. Do this by taking plants outside when it is warm and leaving them in a shady area protected from the wind. Gradually lengthen the time to all day or leave them in a very protected place, remembering to water as they dry out rapidly. Day by day, move to a more sunny location and plant in containers when the weather is calm.
Container potting soil is relatively inexpensive considering all the benefits your plants will derive from it. Traditional houseplant potting soil will dry out too quickly, and can not be adequately re-moistened. All potting soil should be thoroughly moistened prior to filling your containers. Adding a reliable brand of granular fertilizer when planting will give your container a great start.
Soil in containers needs to be fairly light but also rich because the
plants are closely packed in with roots competing for precious nutrients. For ease of use
and convenience can buy one of the special container mixes
from the nursery to ensure that you get a good mix of peat moss, vermiculite or perlite,
and nutrients. These are sterile mixes so they do not contain any living microorganisms,
weeds, insects or diseases. If you would like to make your own potting soil, here is a
‘recipe” suggestion: 1 part topsoil (available from local nurseries), 1 part
lightener (perlite or vermiculite) and 1 part conditioner (peat moss) along with a handful
of fertilizer granules for every 6 inches of pot height and a scoop of cow manure for
every 6 inches. If you are going for a lighter blend to reduce weight on rooftop garden,
reduce the amount of top soil, the heaviest ingredient, to be just 10% of the soil mix so
that it is 1 part topsoil to 5 parts lightener and 5 parts conditioner. If you have
limited strength you should be aware that mixing soils can be very strenuous work so you
might want to use a premixed lighter mix. Also if you live in a 4 story walk-up think
about carrying heavy bags of top soil up to the top floor or hauling them up to a roof. In
subsequent years break up the old soil and remove about half. Then top-up and mix in new
soil and fertilizer. A granular slow release fertilizer works well for plants that are
closely packed into containers and fighting for air, water and nutrients.
Be sure to have holes in your pots for drainage so that water doesn't pool in the bottom causing root rot.
That cautionary word said, anything could function as a container for holding your plants as long as the drainage is sufficient If water can't drain out of the pot, the roots sit in water and will rot. You can add holes to a container bottom by using a drill. You want to employ an adequate drill bit, though, using a masonry drill bit for terra cotta, clay and concrete, a metal drill bit for metal and a wood drill bit for wood, plastics and resin.
Over the drainage holes place large size terra cotta shards or stones to keep the drainage holes from being blocked by the soil. The ensuing air circulation promotes increased growth.
If the pot is sitting on a concrete balcony floor, raise it up on feet made out of clay or plastic. Flat pieces of brick or small squares of wood will also work to raise pots - just don't put them under the drainage hole. These allow the water to drain away from the pot.
If you use a saucer under your pot, don't let water stand in it. Check about an hour after watering and if there is still water in the saucer pour it off.
Before putting soil in the pot when planting, place a small piece of mesh over the hole so that soil doesn't escape. Don't entirely cover the hole but leave enough space for the water to drain. Some gardeners recommend using an old tea bag over the hole. Be sure to thoroughly clean any containers that were used for previous plantings, as this prevents 'old' diseases from attacking your new plants
Remember potted plants can dry very quickly in the sun and wind. Small pots can totally dry out in as little as a few hours.
Do the soil test. Stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle to tell if the soil is moist.
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It's hard to overwater outdoor pots that have good drainage. Many potted gardens need watering every day.
Group your pots. The larger display can be magnificent and watering is easier in a large group.
As healthy plants grow their size and appetite increases. Successful container gardening means being mindful of when plants need repotting into a larger home to accommodate this. It's time to repot when you notice either of the following conditions: your plant needs water daily because it won't hold any moisture or large roots are pushing through the drain hole. In both cases the root system has grown so big that very little soil is left in the pot. Find a slightly larger container which befits your overall design scheme. Transplanting your plants then into containers is simple. Once you've created the best soil possible in your planter and ensuring that the plant is moist, gently remove the plant from it's existing container, gently loosen rootball of each plant to enable the roots to spread into the soil as the plants grow. Tamp the soil down around the plant after transplanting. Give it a good soaking . Make sure to keep the plant out of direct sun or other severe weather for a week while it's adjusting to its new home.
The preliminary decisions have been made and now the question to ponder: what sort of layout for the plants in the container do I have in mind ? Not only will the containers themselves have a grouping design, but also the plant layouts in the individual containers and the containers relating to one another have a designed quality about them.
As a rule of thumb, container gardens usually look best when there's about twice as much plant as pot.. Then consider the growing patterns of various plants. Some plants are "trailers," others are "fillers," while still others are "uprights." Some have large blooms, others sport medium sized blossoms, while still other varieties produce showy clusters of flowers that will droop prettily over the side of your container. Then there are those with tall stalks, medium sized stalks, and those that have no stalks at all, but grow in compact clumps. Let alone, the color relationships of the blooms and foliages, which must be dealt with by flaunting great attention to the detail. Here can the artistic gardener's eye show it's mettle.
. Designing with
the color wheel.
To
show off all the plants in your window box, select plants of different
heights, and work
from the back to the front, graduating down in heights to trailing elements on the edges.
Next, select flowers with blossom colors that create evocative pairings. Doing this will
give your container a more attractive eye appeal. Now, consider the foliage color, size,
and texture of the plants you select. Always select your plant material itself with
attention to it's health and quality. You want to find plant material that has not been
overly stressed or rushed in it's growing time. Rushed plants will go to seed very quickly
and end up disappointing in a container garden.
Sometimes
adding plants with striking foliage and no flowers will make an outstanding addition to a
window box.. Foliages in and of themselves are finally getting their just due by the more
adventurous gardeners. Then there's the issue of symmetry, or balance. Do you want a
formal look, or more of an informal cottage garden look? You are the artist
painting this flowering canvas to suit your stylistic ideas.
Containers look best when they are packed with plants, with little or no soil visible. It is difficult to place plants too closely together in containers. Space the plants according to their final growing (width & height) A planted container should look attractive immediately after or certainly within a few weeks of planting. At Grasmere, we take the approach of the "survival of the fittest" in container planting.
We are all set now for the actual process of planting. Carefully remove the moistened plants from the tray or pot (never pull dry plants out of their containers, as it is too stressful). If the plant looks slightly root-bound (root material spiraling around the soil) gently loosen up the root ball. Place the plants in holes of as about the same depth as the depth of the original container. Remember that good-looking plants have good-looking root systems. Make sure the pot you use is large enough to contain the entire root mass. Bring the soil in contact with the roots and press firmly. Water immediately and thoroughly. Don't let the plant go dry during the first week. Then water and fertilize regularly.
The Elixir Of Life: Water
Watering is the most critical task a container gardener performs ensuring healthy and thriving plants. More plants grown in containers fail from improper watering than from any other cause.
A noteworthy disadvantages of containers is that, generally, they require more frequent watering than flower beds. In the ground, plants can send out roots that adapt to the particular conditions, yet in a pot the plant is confined to its artificial space: Rain won't be retained as plentiful as in the ground, particularly when the pots are placed under overhangs, umbrellas or close to a wall. Your container plants remain mostly at the mercy of the 'water gods' .
Determining in advance how much time and effort you
can devote to
maintenance will help you decide what types of containers and plants to use. If you
travel a lot in the summer, live a busy life which keeps you away from
your plants, or you can't water very much for other reasons, small containers
and delicate plants are
not your best option. Even large containers and vigorous plants, though, need careful
attention.
When to water
Knowing how often to water is a matter of knowing the individual needs of your plants, the soil consistency and regularity of rainfall. If your plants are drooping, they're almost certainly thirsty. Sticking your finger up to the second joint into the soil will quickly tell you if the plant needs water. If the soil has slightly pulled away from the container wall, it is a definite sign of a severe lack of water. Some plants cannot be saved at this point since the root ball might already have been damaged beyond rehabilitation. Any watering after the root ball has been damaged through overwatering (root-rot=lack of oxygen) or underwatering (root atrophy), is in vain.
Hot, dry windy weather may necessitate watering two or three times daily since both, wind and heat, evaporate the stored-up moisture in container gardens more rapidly. Consider moving your containers to a cool, protected area during such times.
If you can't reach hanging baskets, assume they need watering every day as it is difficult to overwater a plant that has adequate drainage and is exposed to the wind and sun. (This is quite different from the all-too-common problem of overwatering indoor plants).
Many gardeners insist that the only time to water is in the morning because the hot sun of midday will burn the moist leaves. If you can't water in the morning,, water when it is convenient than not water at all.. Try not to water at night as moisture and darkness set up a perfect environment for pests like slugs and mosquitoes as well as diseases like mildew and black spot.
How to water
When you do water, do it thoroughly. If the location permits, water until the excess runs off out of the drainage hole. If you just sprinkle a little on top each day the entire root structure will never be thoroughly watered, and your plants will develop shallow root systems that create weak plants.
Watering is easy if a 1/2-1 inch space has been left between the top of the container and the soil level. More watering is necessary with container gardens because of the lopsided ratio of root to soil and it depends largely on the exposure to sun and wind, type, and number of plants and porosity of the container. (Terra cotta containers need more watering than plastic or resin containers.) More on watering.
Wands, Spouts and Watering Cans
If you live in an apartment, it is especially helpful to have an outside hose bib attached on the balcony. Some builders make this a standard feature but many don't even consider it necessary. If you are fortunate enough to have a hose outlet, buy the shortest hose that will allow to reach everywhere on your deck. The shorter the hose the lighter it is making it easier to to maneuver and hang up afterwards. Usually 25 feet with a 1/2" diameter is plenty of hose for a balcony or patio. A hose attachment called a watering wand, a long, usually aluminum tube with a sprinkler-like nozzle, is a good investment. Wands are about 30" long, allowing you to reach further, even from a sitting position, into the back of a flower bed or up high into a hanging basket or window box. There are even wands available with a 90 degree curve so that you water straight into hanging baskets. There are shorter wands around 16" that are actually made for children but are quite light weight with soft foam grips and are extremely practical for those with little strength for lifting. Any watering wand attachment will allow you to water all of your plants without refilling a can, a great advantage when you have a lot of pots to maintain. If you don't have a water outlet on the balcony or deck you will need to haul water. Watering cans come in many styles and sizes. The metal ones are traditional but add water to them and they can be pretty heavy. Try a lighter weight plastic one in sizes from about 1 pint to 1 1/2 gallons. If you keep a rain barrel on the deck you can fill from the top or use a hose from the bottom for filling. There are some quite sophisticated on the market now with a spigot already in place. Of course, the best way to ease watering tasks is to plant wisely. Using a mulch in beds, raised or flat, helps preserve water. Plant more drought resistant plants that cope better with less watering. If you mostly work with pots, however, an extra step taken in the initial soil preparation can save many hours all summer long. Adding moisture retention granules helps reduce watering in any kind of contained planting. These polymers granules soak up the water and then slowly release it back into the soil as it dries out. Some potting mixtures come with granules already mixed in but these tend to be pretty expensive. A better alternative is to buy the granules in small packages and mix them in as you plant. That way you can place them in the bottom half of the pot where the roots of the plant will get the most benefit. Hanging moss baskets which often require daily watering in the middle of summer, can sometimes go from 2-3 days between watering.
:Because container gardens are in active growth and flowering, they need a richer soil than either house or garden plants. This does not call for increasing the quantity of fertilizer per application, but for feeding on a more frequent schedule. fertilizer (with a higher middle number to encourage blossoming) according to label directions throughout the summer every two weeks. Water the container before fertilizing as not to 'burn' the roots with the fertilizer. A continuous gentle fertilizing to replace nutrients throughout the entire growing season is the desired goal.
Different
plants have different sun requirements. With this in mind, build your planter garden
according to the following: Choose
plants with similar sun needs when combining
together
in a container.
One of the big advantages to container gardening is the ability to move pots around to find the best growing conditions. If you find your planter isn't doing well try moving it to a sunnier spot. Or if the plant looks like it's leaves are browning, move it out of direct sun. The good thing is that since your planter is portable you can experiment quite easily until you find the best place with just the right amount of sun.
Containers should be kept out of direct midday sun and drying winds, if possible. Because they are exposed on all sides, they will show some effects of harsh elements more quickly. Uneven sun exposure might cause your plants to lean one way in search of more sun. To correct for this, rotate the planters one a week or two so the plant will grow straight.
Plants will go to seed once their blooms are finished. That's nature. But a little trick called deadheading will stop the plant from setting seed too soon. Simply remove the faded flowers from the plant by pinching off the flower head. Now the plant will spend its energy producing more flowers instead of seed Deadheading will not only encourage many more flowers, it will create a longer blooming period. Another tip to increase plant growth is to pinch the central growing tip of the plant. This will produce side shoots further down the stem, creating a bushier plant that will produce more flowers throughout the season. Do not be timid in controlling or cutting back plants. The key to container garden maintenance is to keep all the parts. foliage and blossoms in a desirable balance.
There are some simple, good gardening practices that will deter pest problems before they begin. Ensure your soil is healthy by enriching it with a new topcoat layer (or replacing the soil after a few years) and other appropriate nutrients. This builds strong plants which are more resistant to most pests. Keep your garden and container itself clean and tidy. Insects may start on nearby weeds or dead foliage and then migrate to your healthy container plants. Feed and water your plants regularly as directed (most annuals need weekly to bi-weekly fertilizing).
Properly nourished plants stay vigorous and are less susceptible to infestation and disease. In spite of good pest prevention, some conditions might prevail that promote insects. Here are the most common pest problems and their symptoms to help diagnose potential problems. Most problems if found early are easily remedied with a chemical insecticide. Follow label directions as described, but we suggest rinsing the chemical off the plant after five or six hours and re-applying and rinsing one week later. We have found that some chemicals can leave a residue on the plants that can be harmful if not rinsed away.
Siqueland-Gresch. Copyright © 2003 by Grasmere.
All rights reserved.
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