Watering a potted plant or container garden may appear easy, but it can at times become challenging for the novice gardener. You have to remember that the roots - the supplier of water, nutrients and oxygen ! - of a potted plant are restricted by the container and the soil, so both, over-watering and under-watering, can cause problems for potted plants.

Proper watering begins with proper soil selection. All potting soil is not created equal. Look for a potting medium that is sterile, porous, lightweight, and most importantly, one that will drain quickly. It is all but impossible to properly water soil that won't drain. If excess water cannot drain away, it will fill the airspaces in the soil and displace the oxygen between the root vessels which cannot breathe any longer and root rot occurs.
When filling pots with potting media leave yourself about a half an inch of head space between the soil surface and the rim of your pot. This small amount of headspace makes it easy to gauge how much water you are adding each time you irrigate. Another reason to leave yourself some headspace is to help keep your soil from washing out of pots and onto the floor.


When watering, try to develop a habit of checking plants on a regular schedule. If soil is allowed to get too dry, roots may be damaged - at times severely - from dehydration or fertilizer burn. Water thoroughly every time you water a plant. Avoid mere top-watering where a cupful, a saucepanful, an anythingful is poured onto a plant without reassurance that the water is enough to actually reach and saturate the root. Apply enough water to moisten the entire soil volume, plus a little extra to leach soluble salts, excess fertilizers and toxins out of the container. One efficient and decidedly non-messy way to do so is to place the plant in a sink and water until excess water runs out of the drainage holes.

When placed indoors, potted plants are usually set onto saucers to hold excess water that drains from the bottom of the pot. If the plant is left standing in this water for long ( one hour being the maximum), the moisture will be reabsorbed into the pot. Over prolonged period of time, this results in the above mentioned root rot , salt injury, and generally poor plant performance. To prevent the problem, discard any water in the saucer after each watering, or elevate the base of the container above the level of drainage water. One way to do this is to spread a layer of gravel in the bottom of the saucer deep enough to keep the bottom of the container out of the water.

The feel and color of the soil should be used as a guide in watering indoor plants. Plant roots are usually in the bottom 2/3 of the pot. For most plants, do not water until the bottom 2/3 starts to dry out slightly. You can't tell this by looking, so you have to feel the soil. When the top 1/2 inch of the soil (in containers up to 8 to10 inches in diameter) feels dry, the plant probably needs watering. For a 6 inch pot, stick your index finger about 2 inches into the soil (approximately to the second joint of your finger). For smaller pots, 1 inch (first joint of your finer) into the soil is the proper depth to measure. Professional plantscapers sometimes employ  moisture-meters to detect the amount of soil moisture.

The experienced gardener never waters by prefabricated schedules. All indoor plants are governed by their surroundings. A plant’s water needs vary based on its very own needs of the species, and the light, wind-influence, temperature and humidity (or dry-ness) in its location. When looking for a remedy for an underperforming plant consider all the surrounding factors. After all, plants are living things and a little time spent learning how each plant responds to its environment will make watering an enjoyable chore.

 

Going Drier

This is an advanced watering concept and should not be adopted by the novice gardener. Most potted plants do well when their root growth is being stimulated with "going drier", that is, the watering is being delayed by just a half-day or day to make the root stretch deeper into the soil in search of moisture. But keep in mind that almost dry isn't the same as dry. Ferns and other thin-leafed plants never like their potting mix to go anywhere close to the almost-dry stage. As soon as their mix becomes dry to the touch, water them without delay. Ivies thrive if they are kept 'drier' ( one to two inch deep). Cacti and other succulents, as well as many other thick-leafed plants, don't mind if their soil dries out. Those plants can go a few days with dry soil, or even go weeks without watering if they are in a dormant state.

Check each plant every three to four days and water only those plants that need it.

A detailed look at how to care for ivy topiaries.

 

What Kind Of Water To Use

Tap water is acceptable for watering most plants, but ideally the water should be at room temperature and applied in the morning whenever possible. Allowing tap water to warm up to room temperature (a four to eight hour process) also allows water additives to evaporate or settle out in the water. These additives (water softeners, chlorine and fluoride) can cause the browning of plant leaf tips. The prolonged use of water from a softener usually results in poor plant growth. Particularly softened water can contain larger amounts of sodium that can increase the soluble salt levels in the soil.

Water at room temperature is especially needed for tropical plants. Water on the foliage of African violets will cause water spots if the temperature of the water is more than 15°F cooler than the leaf surface. Again, the best time to water is in the morning.
 

Watering During Winter

Plants are especially vulnerable to mis-watering during the winter months largely because of reduced light intensity. House plants tell you they are getting too much water when their lower leaves turn yellow and drop off. Sometimes brown or black spots appear on the leaves. The roots often become mushy and turn black or brown, but you would have to knock the plant out of the pot to see this symptom. The plant also might wilt.

Don't use the surface of the soil as an indicator of a plant's water needs. During the winter, the upper surface of the soil dries out quickly as a result of the furnace running. Many interior plants that are not given artificial light go into a resting stage during the short cool days of winter. During this season watering should be reduced.

 

What To Do When Going Away ?

 When you know you have to be away from home from time to time, mix in hydrophilic polymers, such as Terra-Sorb, Soil Moist or Water Grabber into the soil. These are granules designed to help the soil retain moisture. Then, before leaving for a long weekend, move sensitive plants into partial shade to lessen their chances of getting dried out quickly. Water each plant thoroughly. To help keep smaller containers surrounded with moisture, place them in a tray filled with pebbles and water. For a larger pot, set a bucket of water next to it, then put one end of a wick (she uses new kerosene lamp wicks) in the bucket and pokes the other in the soil of the plant about a finger’s length below the surface. This keeps a supply of moisture readily available as the soil dries out. You may be able to double up, putting several wicks in one bucket. How much water a plant will use depends on the size of the pot, the weather and the water needs of the plant. So experiment. Start with one 2-gallon bucket per pot and go from there.

 

 

 

 

You probably discover that you tend to water the following plants more often than others:

  • Plants growing in clay pots (water evaporates quicker from the sides of a porous clay pot than from plastic pots or glazed ceramic pots)
  • Plants with large or thin leaves (large surface to evaporate water, little depth for moisture retention)
  • Plants with thin stems
  • Plants in full growth
  • Flowering plants with a plethora of blooms
  • Fast growing plants
  • A large plant in a small pot

You can also expect to water more often if any of the following environmental conditions exist:

  • High temperatures (near a fire place or space heater ?)
  • Strong sunlight or other bright light
  • Dry air (particularly: forced hot-air vents)
  • Air movement (such as a breeze coming through a window or in front of a fan during summer)

You probably find that you water the following plants less often than your other plants:

  • Plants in plastic pots
  • Plants with thick, waxy, or hairy leaves, or with no leaves at all
  • Plants with thick stems, such as you see on succulents
  • Weak or sick plants
  • Resting or dormant plants
  • Freshly repotted plants
  • A plant in an oversize pot

You can also expect to water less often if any of the following environmental conditions exist:

  • Low temperatures
  • Cloudy days or dim light
  • Humid air
  • Little or no air movement

 

 Sometimes, even the best watering habits are not enough. On the following page you'll find a brief guide to general houseplant ailments and their possible causes.

 

 

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